24 mars, J5 – 18 kms – Temples 14, 15, 16 et 17
Une étape courte et rapidement urbaine pour rejoindre la ville de Tokushima, celle où, venant d’Osaka, nous avions débarqué sur l’île le premier jour de notre arrivée au Japon.
Le Temple 14, Joraku-ji, Eternelle béatitude
En route vers le Temple 14, Joraku-ji, Eternelle béatitude qui a la réputation de guérir les diabétiques qui prient ici et qui boivent une infusion préparée à partir des feuilles d’un if très ancien implanté à côté du temple principal (visible sur la photo).
Dans l’enceinte du monastère, un incongru salon d’énormes fauteuils en bois ouvragés à l’excès sous un auvent invite les pèlerins à se poser. Nous préférons nos rustiques bancs bleus délavés où nous rejoignent deux chats très intéressés par les grelots de nos bâtons.
Le Temple 15, Kokubun-ji, Temple Provincial
Ce temple fait partie d’un ensemble de temples construits dans le pays sur décret impérial datant de 741. Actuellement en rénovation, il est couvert d’une grande structure fermée qui ne laisse guère en découvrir le charme.
Sur le chemin, nous nous arrêtons un instant devant une boutique spécialisée dans les vêtements pour écoliers et collégiens. Les enfants français n’en rêveront certainement pas !
Le Temple 16, Kannon-ji, Temple de Kannon déesse de la Pitié
Le Temple 17, Ido-ji, Temple du Puits
Ce dernier temple est destiné à honorer le Kobo Daishi qui selon la légende aurait creusé un puits en une nuit pour venir en aide à des paysans qui manquaient d’eau. Ce puits est toujours visible. Si un visiteur peut y voir son visage, la chance est avec lui, dans le cas contraire, il est mal barré …
Je poursuis ainsi au fil de ces sanctuaires ma collection de photos de cordages de gongs. Le tressage de ces cordes au sommet desquelles est fixé le gong est déjà ravissant par lui-même et ce cordage est toujours habillé à son extrémité de tissus très colorés, telles des poupées de chiffon.
De temps en temps, j’ose demander au préposé au sceau de notre livre de le prendre en photo à l’œuvre. Je suis fascinée de les voir faire. Aujourd’hui une petite dame toute pimpante m’a donné son accord.
Vers 13h, nous arrivons au Sun Route, hôtel au cœur de Tokushima, une ville de plus de 200 000 habitants. Cet hébergement faisait partie des conseils de Jules le quebécois, donnés en 2014, conseils que je suis à la lettre depuis le début de notre marche itinérante. A partir de maintenant, ce sera à nous de nous débrouiller ! En attendant, nous retrouvons le confort à l’occidentale avec grand plaisir ! Et pour déjeuner, nous aurons notre premier ramen, trop bon !
Découverte de l’onsen
Nous avons poursuivi par une petite balade dans le parc du coin, puis par notre première expérience d’onsen au 11ème étage de l’hôtel. L’onsen est un bain dont l’eau est chauffée naturellement par la géothermie. Le sento est un bain chauffé artificiellement et le furo, c’est la salle de bain dans une maison. Il devait donc s’agir ici d’un sento, je vois mal la géothermie monter au 11ème étage…
Dans ces trois types de bain, le mode d’emploi est identique, la seule différence c’est la taille et le standing. Ici, c’est le luxe, un régal, avec plusieurs bassins à différentes températures. Côté femmes, il n’y a pas foule, ce qui rend l’expérience encore plus agréable mais j’avoue ne pas pouvoir rester trop longtemps à trempouiller dans ces eaux très chaudes, d’autant qu’on reste statique. Pas question non plus de plonger ou nager, ce n’est pas une piscine mais un lieu de relaxation ! Alors une fois qu’on a expérimenté les différents bassins, l’intérêt s’épuise vite, d’autant plus que parfois on frôle l’ébouillantage.
Dîner en ville
Pas de dîner imposé à 18h ce soir ! Suivant les conseils de l’hôtel, nous nous présentons à 20h à l’adresse indiquée, après quelques errements car les numéros n’existent pas dans ce pays et les enseignes de restaurants, en écriture stylisée, sont illisibles pour nous. Le restaurant affichant complet, nous demandons de pouvoir revenir un peu plus tard, la demande semble surprendre mais après quelques conciliabules entre eux, nous obtenons un ok.
Pas de regret d’avoir insisté (cela ne se fait pas au Japon !), le dîner s’avère délicieux. Au menu, des sashimis parfaits, des tempuras chauds et savoureux contrairement à ceux servis dans nos ryokans et minshukus, souvent préparés à l’avance et donc servis froids. Quel dommage ! Une salade spéciale Tokushima avec sa friture de petits poissons, agrémentée d’un excellent thé vert, le tout servi dans une multitude de petits bols, coupelles et tasses dont seuls les japonais ont le secret.
Petit lexique
- minshuku : équivalent japonais de la chambre d’hôte, le minshuku est un établissement familial dont les chambres, louées à la clientèle font partie intégrante de la maison.
- o-settai : offrande donnée aux pèlerins autant pour les honorer que pour représenter le donateur au cours du pèlerinage
- ramen : plat japonais constitué de nouilles de blé servies dans un bouillon et assorties de morceaux de viande de porc, d’algues, de pousses de bambou fermentées ou encore d’oignons verts. Chaque ville a sa spécialité.Celle de Tokushima est réputée, mais chacun vous dira que sa recette est la meilleure!
- ryokan : auberge typiquement japonaise. Sur notre trajet nous en aurons de tous types, petits et grands, anciens et modernes.
- sashimi : tranches de poisson frais à consommer cru. Pas de riz içi, il est réservé au sushi.
- tempura : beignets de légumes ou fruits de mer. Servis chauds, c’est un délice.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur / autrice
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes et, bien que marcheurs réguliers, ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples. Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
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