20 mars, Jour 1 – 18 kms, Temples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,7
Un grand soleil est au rendez-vous pour ce premier jour de marche alors qu’il a plu quasiment toute la journée d’hier. Kukai semble donc être avec nous, c’est de bon augure ! Nous faisons nos adieux à notre hôtesse qui nous a lestés de deux onigiris chacun, l’équivalent de nos sandwiches occidentaux : une boule de riz bien compacte, entourée d’une algue nori (algue séchée sous forme de feuille) contenant soit des copeaux de bonite broyés, soit une prune vinaigrée et salée, umeboshi, (redoutable) soit rien du tout. Nous lui donnons rendez-vous pour la mi-mai environ, nous ignorons à ce jour combien il nous faudra pour parcourir ces 1200kms à pied, concept qui nous apparaît complètement abstrait à ce jour.
Au programme de la journée, sept temples où nous découvrirons le classique et invariable rituel respecté à la lettre par les pèlerins. Il y a bien des manières de réaliser ce chemin spirituel, à pied comme nous nous apprêtons à le faire et nous verrons qu’il s’agit là d’une infime minorité, en voiture, à vélo, en moto, en bus.. Ce dernier moyen de transport étant le plus répandu. Au fil de tous ces temples que nous visiterons nous les verrons ces pèlerins en troupe, dégorgeant de leur minibus, tous vêtus de blanc, effectuant leurs prières de manière très stéréotypée et presque au pas de course comme s’ils étaient à forfait.
Temple 1, Ryozen-ji, temple de la montagne sacrée
Il est très émouvant de franchir le portique vermillon d’entrée de notre premier temple de ce premier jour de marche et je suis ravie de sonner la cloche, pas évident de mobiliser cet énorme battant de bois.
Au-dessus de la fontaine, une carte de Shikoku avec les 88 temples du circuit nous invite à nous imprégner de ce qui nous attend….
Temple 2, Gokuraku-ji
Après le Temple 1, que nous avions visité la veille, un kilomètre à peine pour atteindre le Temple 2, Gokuraku-ji, temple de la Terre Pure (paradis) où se trouve une statue d’Amida Nyorai, la déesse de la lumière, sculptée par Kukai lui-même. On raconte qu’autrefois, cette lumière atteignait la mer et empêchait les pêcheurs de capturer leur proie…Dans les jardins, un énorme cèdre dont le tronc est ceint d’un cordage décoré de pompons de ficelle et de papier est supposé donner longue vie, croyance sans doute shintoïste. Le Shintoïsme est la religion primitive du Japon, célébrant les forces de la terre.
Le temple est niché dans un havre de verdure qui se dévoile à nous au dernier moment, alors que nous sommes encore dans une zone très urbanisée.
Voici l’architecture et la composition classique des temples, tous en bois.
- La porte d’entrée, qui est une sorte de portique entouré de deux niches où siègent les gardiens du temple, supposés repousser les esprits du mal, deux énormes statues au visage effrayant, foulant à leurs pieds un pauvre être humain représentant le mécréant ! Le Bouddhisme ne s’avère guère plus tolérant vis à vis des autres croyances. On est supposé s’arrêter à gauche de cette porte, joindre les mains devant sa poitrine et s’incliner.
- La fontaine, où l’on se purifie. Après avoir puisé un peu d’eau grâce à une écuelle en bois ou en métal emmanchée au bout d’une tige de bambou, on se lave les mains et on se rince la bouche.
- La tour de la cloche, pour marquer son arrivée. Une pièce de bois suspendue à la perpendiculaire de la cloche permet de frapper celle-ci, une seule fois svp !
- Le temple principal, Hondo, avec la statue de la divinité célébrée et vénérée. La plupart du temps on ne pénètre pas dans ce bâtiment. Au bas des marches d’accès, on allume une bougie et trois bâtons d’encens, puis on sonne le gong afin de réveiller la divinité. On glisse dans un coffre un feuillet, après avoir bien noté dessus son nom, son adresse, la date du jour et son vœu… Voilà donc un des usages de ces fameux osame-fuda dont nous avions acheté un carnet. Et on n’oublie pas son offrande en monnaie trébuchante. Voilà le pèlerin enfin prêt à réciter ses sutra, trois fois de suite, de manière très incantatoire. Ici, le sutra de rigueur est celui du Cœur que nous sommes censés connaître par coeur…
- Le temple du Daishi, Daishido: une statue du Kobo Daishi est ici présente. Le rituel est identique à celui du précédent.
- Le bureau du temple : où, une fois tout ce cérémonial accompli, on reçoit dans son livre, le nôkyôchou, le tampon du temple, mais quel tampon ! Une vraie page de calligraphie, fascinant à regarder faire, je ne m’en suis jamais lassée. Le préposé à cette tâche, moine ou pas moine, appose tout d’abord trois tampons rouges correspondant à la date, au nom du temple et je ne sais plus quoi d’autre. Puis il trempe son pinceau dans l’encre noire de sa pierre à encre et telles des arabesques couvre la page du livre d’une superbe calligraphie, extrait du sutra en relation avec la divinité célébrée dans ce temple dont on reçoit également une image. Donc à chaque temple, la calligraphie sera différente, un régal à voir faire, et une véritable œuvre d’art. On débourse alors trois cent yens (deux euros cinquante environ). Plus l’offrande, plus l’achat des bougies, des bâtonnets d’encens… un vrai business ces temples, ils ont tout compris ces bouddhistes ! Et chez nous, on visite les cathédrales gratuitement…
- Feu vert pour repartir vers le prochain temple, mais en repassant le portique d’entrée, on se retourne et à nouveau on s’incline mains jointes.
Bref, il faut bien compter vingt à trente minutes pour chaque temple.
Le toit est souvent l’élément visuel le plus impressionnant des halls à prière, constituant souvent la moitié de la taille de l’édifice. Les avant-toits légèrement incurvés s’étendent au-delà des murs, couvrant des vérandas. Ils sont surdimensionnés et très travaillés conférant à l’intérieur une pénombre caractéristique qui contribue à l’atmosphère du temple. L’intérieur du bâtiment est normalement constitué d’une seule pièce centrale appelée moya, à partir de laquelle partent parfois d’autres espaces moins importants, par exemple les couloirs appelés hisashi.
Nous cheminons en ce premier jour sur des petites routes traversant des agglomérations sans grand intérêt, un habitat rural au style très hétéroclite, en dehors de quelques îlots de maisons modernes à l’architecture classique avec leurs toits incurvés de tuiles grises vernissées. Certaines de ces maisons ont de très beaux jardins avec une profusion de camélias, de magnolias. Nous verrons même un superbe mimosa.
A la croisée de deux chemins, nous hésitons…et ainsi rencontrons nous Marcello, un jeune italien que nous avions déjà remarqué au temple 1. Il termine un an d’études à Sapporo et avant que son visa n’expire a décidé de clôturer son séjour au Japon par le pèlerinage de Shikoku. Il est en parfaite autonomie, c’est à dire qu’il a avec lui son sac de couchage afin de dormir où bon lui semble et dehors de préférence. Après l’interminable hiver de Sapporo où il a été privé de vie au grand air, il ne désire qu’une chose, avoir seule l’immensité du ciel au-dessus de sa tête ! Apte à lire le japonais, il nous remet dans le droit chemin.
Un peu plus loin, nous rencontrons une japonaise qui termine le tour des 88 temples en sens inverse après l’avoir fait dans le bon sens, à raison de 2 jours de marche par mois. Deux ans pour réaliser son tour…
L’heure du déjeuner approche et comme par miracle, une « bakery » (boulangerie) au bord du chemin offrant quelques feuilletés ressemblant étrangement à ceux de chez nous et même des sandwiches au chocolat comme ceux que je me faisais quand j’étais enfant ! Nous ne résisterons point, les onigiris attendront…Incroyable de trouver cette french bakery perdue au milieu d’un environnement rural bien japonais, offrant une vraie baguette qui s’est avérée excellente.
N’étant pas encore très familiers des balisages, nous hésitons pas mal à chaque croisement mais chaque fois, il se trouve une bonne âme pour nous indiquer la bonne direction sans qu’on demande quoique ce soit. Faut dire qu’avec notre accoutrement, il est aisé de deviner où nous désirons aller !
Temple 3 Konsen-ji
Et ainsi se succèderont au fil de la journée le temple 3 Konsen-ji, temple de la Source d’Or, devant son nom à un puits aux eaux dorées…si vous pouvez discerner votre visage dans son reflet, vous vivrez jusqu’à 92 ans ! Sinon vous mourez dans les trois ans qui viennent ! Nous avons préféré ne pas tenter le mauvais sort…
Les temples 4, 5, 6 et 7
Le temple 4, Dainishi-ji, temple du Grand Soleil et ses 33 statues de Kannon, le boddhisattva de la compassion.
Le Temple 5, Jizo-ji, temple de Jizo avec son Immense Ginko de 800 ans et ses 200 statues en bois d’arhats, disciples éclairés de Bouddha.
Le Temple 6, Anraku-ji, temple de la Joie Perpétuelle et ses 33 statues de divinités et enfin le Temple 7, Juraku-ji, temple des Dix Joies où est célébré plus particulièrement Jizo Bosatsu, protecteur des enfants. Les édifices originaux furent détruits au 16ème siècle lors d’un immense incendie et ceux d’aujourd’hui, occupant un espace plus réduit datent de l’époque Meiji, 19ème siècle.
Nous avons réservé notre première nuit de pèlerin dans le shukubo attenant, ainsi appelle-t-on les hôtels des monastères. Nous nous attendions à quelque chose de rustique et spartiate, et nous découvrons un établissement très fonctionnel et nous dormirons même dans des vrais lits… le tout, il est vrai, sans aucun charme particulier. Le dîner est servi dans un immense réfectoire où seulement quelques tables sont occupées. Arrivant les derniers, nous nous faisons à peine remarquer et j’ai la sensation d’avoir quelques yeux très curieux mais bienveillants posés sur nous durant tout le repas.
La préposée à la réception fera gentiment la réservation de notre auberge du lendemain. C’est ainsi que nous allons fonctionner, les hébergements n’ayant pour la plupart aucun site internet, le téléphone reste le seul moyen de communication. Nous serons donc contraints chaque fois de passer par l’intermédiaire de nos hôtes pour assurer les réservations suivantes. Mais cela semble l’usage de rigueur pour les étrangers.
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Tütsüler hakkında bilinmeyen ne varsa sizlerle en güzel yorumları tütsü çeşitleri sizlerle.
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