22 mars J3 – 18 kms, 1200m D+ – Temple 12
Nous avons retrouvé hier soir à notre auberge nos deux suisses allemandes parties du temple 1 un jour avant nous. En discutant avec elles de l’étape du lendemain qui s’annonce assez difficile, nous découvrons que le portage des bagages se pratique dans ce pays. Quelle bonne nouvelle!! Notre adorable aubergiste a accepté sans problème de se charger de son organisation. Je me suis donc endormie sereine et soulagée. D’après nos lectures variées, demain fait partie des étapes dites « culbutrices de pèlerin », l’aborder en version allégée ne sera pas superflu !
Enfin des vrais sentiers de montagne en pleine forêt et quasi personne, quel bonheur de retrouver le plaisir de la marche dans un tel environnement. Le temple 12 est au sommet d’une montagne mais avant de l’atteindre, nous devons en gravir une première, descendre dans un vallon, regrimper… Bref 600 m de D+, 100 m de D-, 300 m de D+, 400 m de D- et enfin 300 m de D+ vont se succéder au fil de notre journée. Bernard fait le Sherpa en portant nos affaires pour deux jours, et moi je voyage hyper-léger. Tous les quart d’heure, je bénis cette décision car les montées sont redoutables au travers d’une belle forêt de cèdres du Japon et de bambous.
En chemin, nous rencontrons un japonais avide de lier conversation. Nous arrivons à comprendre qu’il effectue cette ascension tous les jours afin d’entretenir sa santé. En entendant le mot Furansu (trad. nous sommes français), son enthousiasme à nous accompagner redouble. Au sommet, il semble désolé de devoir nous quitter; nous poursuivons notre chemin et lui redescend dans la vallée, mais avant que nos chemins se séparent, il immortalise notre rencontre par une photo sur son téléphone.
Une rencontre étonnante
Un peu plus loin, nous croisons un authentique pèlerin de Shikoku, un moine vêtu de blanc de la tête au pied, y compris son énorme sac à dos et ses jikatabi en tissu, ces chaussures typiquement japonaises séparant le gros orteil des autres doigts du pied. On dirait qu’il marche en chaussettes ! Il effectue le tour de Shikoku à l’envers, c’est à dire du T88 au T1, après l’avoir fait dans le bon sens. Apparemment c’est une coutume des puristes de ce pèlerinage. En général, ils dorment dans les huttes de henro et pas dans les auberges comme nous. Nouvelle photo de cette rencontre étonnante.
Nous bénéficions fort heureusement aujourd’hui d’un temps couvert qui nous offre ainsi des températures agréables pour l’ascension. De belles bornes de pierre, vestiges des temps anciens de ce chemin jalonnent notre sentier avec, sur certaines, un index bienveillant pour indiquer la direction. Ainsi que quelques petits temples rustiques tout en bois, sanctuaires secondaires abritant des bouddhas souvent coiffés de rouge.
Nous atteignons le Temple 12 à 700 m d’altitude en fin de matinée.
Le temple Shosan-ji, la Montagne en Feu
Ce lieu reculé de montagne est chargé de légendes comme tous ces édifices religieux que nous traversons. De quoi parfois douter de son sens du rationnel ou se poser des questions sur la délectation des humains à se complaire ainsi dans une telle crédulité. Kobo Daishi voulut créer ici un lieu de formation ascétique, mais régnait alors une légende d’un grand serpent ou dragon vivant dans cette montagne. Le valeureux Kukai parvint à confiner le monstre dans une caverne alors que ce dernier avait généré un immense incendie. Les mythologies sont omniprésentes dans toutes les cultures et, finalement, ont pas mal de similitudes.
De magnifiques et immenses cèdres du Japon, certainement pluri-centenaires cernent le temple Shosan-ji, la Montagne en Feu. Le site est impressionnant de majesté mais brrr, quel froid ! Nous nous refugierons autour du poêle à pétrole qui ronronne dans la grande salle où chacun vient faire tamponner son livre.
Nous y retrouvons mon gentil japonais salvateur de hier matin, et nos deux suissesses. Chacun en profite pour déballer son pique-nique, les classiques et incontournables onigiris. Impossible de définir le contenu des nôtres… Bernard est prêt à tout avaler ! J’ai un peu plus de mal. Heureusement, nous avons soutiré ce matin une banane à notre hôte de la nuit. Ce n’est que le troisième jour et déjà je fais une overdose de riz. Un café serait le bienvenu après ce repas spartiate… mais non, rien ne viendra. Le moine préposé aux tampons a beau voir qu’on s’attarde et que l’on a froid, cela ne lui vient pas à l’esprit de nous proposer quelque chose de chaud.
Vers notre auberge du soir et le Temple 13
Alors nous repartons et c’est la grande descente vers Nabeiwa, le village où nous dormirons ce soir. En route, nous longeons des champs d’arbres en fleurs et d’orangers couverts de fruits, j’en cueillerais bien quelques-uns, mais mon sage mari veille à notre bon comportement civique…
Notre ryokan est une belle maison ancienne entouré d’un très joli jardin. Nous héritons d’une immense chambre. Apparemment, ce genre de chambres se partage à plusieurs pour les japonais si on en juge le nombre de futons dans le placard mais on ne mélange pas les étrangers… surtout s’ils sont en couple ! Et bien excellente coutume, j’apprécie!!! Par contre bien obligés de partager la salle de bain où chacun et chacune s’affaire à ses ablutions, nus comme des vers… ma foi, on commence à s’habituer.
Nous retrouvons à nouveau nos deux suissesses et trois japonais avec lesquels nous avions conversé autour du poêle. Au menu, parmi les nombreux plats miniaturisés, une truite entière. Et pour la manger, des baguettes!!!! Nous restons un peu perplexes et puis décidons d’imiter les deux voisins de table de Bernard qui s’attaquent à l’animal avec les doigts ! Nous expérimentons le saké, version chaude, qui est en fait une sorte de vin blanc, bof, pas terrible.
Avant de rejoindre notre chambre, nous commandons nos « o-bento » du lendemain, des onigiris à la prune macérée dans du vinaigre, voilà donc la chose indéfinissable !
Faire notre lit fut un autre moment de perplexité, le drap du dessous étant une couverture polaire… Je doute qu’ils les changent tous les jours. Après cette belle journée bien sportive, il ne nous reste plus qu’à nous coucher comme les poules.
Sur l’auteur / autrice de ce reçit
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes et, bien que marcheurs réguliers, ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples. Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
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