11 avril – J23 – 29 kms
La journée à peine entamée, nous faisons une première halte dans une jolie boutique de bord de route vendant fruits, légumes et toutes sortes de friandises. Nous y retrouvons notre ami Makoto qui nous offre une barquette de ces pseudo oranges qui sont en fait un hybride d’orange et pamplemousse, présentées ici en quartiers prédécoupés. Un cadeau de la part de sa cousine, nous dit-il ! Et ce via Google-Translate dont il est un grand fan ! Avant de nous quitter, séance photos et échange de coordonnées, c’est devenu le rituel.
Il fait un temps superbe ce matin, et nous voici le long d’une magnifique plage déserte où seuls quelques surfeurs attendent patiemment la bonne vague. Notre chemin traverse une pinède qui longe la plage mais nous ne résistons pas au plaisir de fouler le sable et de marcher près de l’eau.
500 kilomètres parcourus !
Nous venons de passer le cap des 500 kilomètre parcourus, nous immortalisons ce grand moment par un selfie. 500 kms !! En toute modestie, nous sommes assez fiers de nous !
A nouveau la route et un charmant o-settai
Nous retrouvons peu après la route où le balisage laisse sérieusement à désirer. Nous restons perplexes devant certains panneaux… Dès qu’on s‘écarte du chemin henro officiel qui suit généralement les routes principales, notre petit pèlerin-ange gardien rouge se fait plus rare. Un jeune homme chargeant des caisses d’oranges dans son camion nous remet sur le droit chemin grâce à son Google Map et, avant de nous quitter, nous offre gentiment deux oranges joliment emballées chacune dans un papier de couleur orange. Chaque fruit a une feuille dépassant de son emballage, ravissant !
A doite, à gauche, quelle direction prendre ? Merci Google Maps
Mais quelques kilomètres plus loin, nouveau questionnement et merci Google Maps qui nous sauve une seconde fois. Nous cherchons en fait le démarrage du sentier qui nous permettra de franchir le col et éviter le tunnel routier. Par ailleurs, nous ne devons absolument pas rater cet embranchement sinon on s’embarque côté Est de la péninsule avec au bout un passage en ferry qui ne fonctionne pas en cas de grosse mer et qu’il faut réserver au moins une heure avant en téléphonant au capitaine, bref mission impossible pour nous. Peu avant de s’engager sur notre sentier, un automobiliste s’arrête pour nous offrir deux bouteilles de ice-tea, très gentil de sa part mais c’est le genre de o-settai empoisonné… Cela pèse lourd et l’ice-tea n’est vraiment pas notre boisson favorite. C’est horrible, on nous fait un cadeau et on râle !
Nous pique-niquons sur un bord de rizière avec le coassement des grenouilles en fond sonore, ambiance bucolique parfaite.
Dans la forêt, des sécateurs sont proposés pour qui veut entretenir le chemin
Et puis nous attaquons l’ascension de la journée, 300 mètres de dénivelé positif par un sentier qui, comme d’habitude, grimpe à la verticale. Dieu que nos sacs sont lourds ! La descente au milieu des bambous et fougères n’en est que plus agréable. En bord de chemin, sécateurs et serpettes sont régulièrement disponibles, invitant chacun à l’entretien du sentier.
Hommage au moine Shinnen
Nous faisons un petit détour pour le sanctuaire Shinnen-an où Shinnen aurait bâti cette hutte sur son chemin de retour du temple 38, y ayant laissé son sac après le temple 37. Nous y sommes accueillis par une double rangée de stèles gravées de bouddhas bien alignées sur un vieux mur de pierres. Shinnen est un moine bouddhiste qui aurait rédigé le premier guide du pèlerinage de Shikoku en 1687, ayant fait lui-même ce pèlerinage au moins 20 fois. Il aurait bâti nombre de huttes-abris que l’on rencontre régulièrement le long de la route et il serait l’auteur de centaines de balisage. Bref, sans Shinnen, nous ne serions certainement pas là. Aujourd’hui, il semble être le promoteur majeur de ce pèlerinage. Un grand merci à lui !
Ce soir, une auberge un peu défraîchie nous attend
Encore un peu de bitume et, à 18 heures passées, nous franchissons le seuil de notre hébergement, le Anshuku Minshuku. Je pressens que celui-là restera dans les annales !! Nous sommes passés plusieurs fois devant cette maison plutôt misérable sans penser que cela pouvait être notre auberge… Il a fallu que le proprio qui, lui, nous avait repérés, sorte de chez lui, pour réaliser avec grande déception que nous étions bien arrivés à destination. L’intérieur n’est guère plus reluisant, notre chambre empeste le tabac. Ici au Japon, il est tout à fait permis de fumer n’importe où ! Grâce à Google-translate (que ferions-nous sans lui ?!) je fais comprendre à notre hôtesse que nous voulons changer de chambre. En fait il n’y a que deux chambres et nous sommes les seuls clients. Avant de faire ma réclamation, j’avais discrètement fait le tour des lieux…
L’auberge est tenue par un couple, elle très gentille comme d’habitude et présentant bien, lui plutôt ours, traînant savates et à l’apparence très négligée. Le furo est à l’image du lieu, les murs sont couverts de moisissures, nous nous abstiendrons de nous plonger dans le bain chaud. Dans ce cas on se contente de prendre une douche, ayant quelques à priori sur l’hygiène de la baignoire et la propreté de l’eau et on ne s’attarde pas dans les lieux. Nous expédions tout aussi rapidement le dîner médiocre avec en plus la télé en fond sonore. Madame fait le service et son ours de mari est avachi sur une chaise nous regardant manger, tout à fait charmant.
Organisation d’un Plan B
Le Camelia lodge, de l’autre côté du pont, nous avait été recommandé, malheureusement il était complet ce soir, il ne dispose lui aussi que de deux chambres. Comme nous devons repasser par ici dans deux jours, entre les temples 38 et 39, nous filons après le dîner vers cette auberge pour tenter une réservation, il est hors de question de re-dormir au Anshuku ! Nous comprenons pourquoi nos amis japonais de la veille dorment ce soir quelques kilomètres plus loin. Le gérant du Camelia nous reçoit très gentiment et se décarcasse pour nous trouver un autre logement, lui-même étant à nouveau complet dans deux jours.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur / autrice
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
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