Un chariot de courses dans les salins
04 avril, J16 – 28 kms – T28, 29 & 30
Une superbe journée s’annonce, le beau temps est avec nous mais ce n’est pas encore la grande chaleur. Quand nous démarrons la journée vers 7 heures, gants et bonnets ne sont pas de trop. Quel plaisir de reprendre notre itinérance à pied, se dire que l’unique occupation de cette journée sera de marcher, poser un pied devant l’autre, laisser nos yeux s’imprégner de tout ce qui nous entoure, regarder les gens vivre au bord du chemin, ne penser à rien si ce n’est au plaisir d’avancer au rythme de nos pas. Nous parlons peu en chemin, j’aime marcher en silence et Bernard est souvent derrière à prendre des photos.
Avant de quitter notre minshuku, nous avons fait la photo de famille avec notre adorable hôtesse et lui avons demandé son adresse postale, nous lui enverrons une carte postale de Paris. Cette femme était un ange, un condensé de gentillesse et d’attentions.
Nous quittons rapidement la côte pour nous acheminer vers les trois temples de la journée qui sont plus à l’intérieur des terres.
Le Temple 28, Grand Soleil, Dainichi-ji
Temple niché dans son beau jardin. Le Kobo Daishi aurait sculpté le honzon dans le tronc d’un camphrier avec ses ongles, il est classé Trésor National.
Notre chemin serpente ensuite au milieu des rizières en eau. Certaines d’entre elles sont déjà semées, petites touffes vert tendre parfaitement alignées dans un miroir d’eau.
Le temple 29, Tosa-Kobubun-ji
Huit kilomètres plus loin, nous arrivons au temple 29, Tosa-Kobubun-ji, temple provincial avec de magnifiques pivoines arbustives. Une seule est en fleurs pour l’instant et, enfin, notre premier cerisier en fleurs. Une photo avec Bernard s’impose. Si nous sommes à Shikoku à cette période c’est bien parce qu’il tenait absolument à voir les cerisiers en fleurs !
Notre rituel est bien rodé maintenant. Je sonne la cloche, Bernard se lave les mains à la fontaine, nous posons nos sacs sur un de ces accueillants bancs bleus, en général je m’y assois et deviens spectatrice. Bernard va déposer ses trois bâtonnets d’encens en ayant une pensée particulière pour un membre de la famille, puis nous déambulons dans les jardins, nous imprégnant de cette atmosphère si singulière de ces temples bouddhistes, prenant quelques photos.
Pour ma part j’aime beaucoup les cordes des gongs du temple principal, toujours habillés de tissus très colorés. Je commence à en avoir une petite collection et je ne me lasse pas de capter en images ces pèlerins de blanc vêtus, de dos psalmodiant leurs sutras, certains à haute voix, d’autres plus discrètement.
Pour l’instant je reste imperméable à toute pensée mystique. Mon cas est sans doute désespéré ! Mais nous éprouvons chacun à notre manière un grand plaisir à profiter de cet instant présent qui semble suspendu dans une réalité immatérielle. On aimerait souvent s’attarder d’avantage mais les kilomètres nous attendent.
Cette fois-ci, je découvre dans la boutique attenante au bureau des tampons, un chapeau chinois bien plus beau que le basique acquis au temple numéro 1 et je ne peux résister au plaisir de l’acheter. Me voilà donc encombrée de deux « suge-kasa ». En nous dirigeant vers la sortie, très belle image de deux pèlerins quittant les lieux comme nous et franchissant le portique d’entrée dans une belle lumière tamisée de contre-jour. Cela fait partie de ces instantanés magiques qui donnent tellement de prix à ce cheminement.
Un o-settai lumineux
Que vais-je faire de mon ancien chapeau ? Je pourrais le laisser en offrande à un de ces multiples petits temples qui jalonnent notre parcours en plus des temples officiels. Soudain, nous rencontrons un vieux couple dans leur rizière. Monsieur est à l’œuvre, pataugeant dans l’eau jusqu’à mi-jambe et finalisant les semis de sa parcelle, pendant que Madame assise en bord de champ lui fait sans doute la conversation. Je lui offre mon chapeau, le déposant sur sa tête et la prends en photo.
Elle se prête au jeu en riant, son vieux mari, ayant interrompu sa tâche est lui aussi tout hilare. Et puis je fais mine de m’éloigner, elle veut me rendre le chapeau mais je lui fais comprendre qu’il est pour elle, son visage s’illumine et elle se confond en remerciements, comme les japonais savent si bien le faire. Je crois que j’ai fait une heureuse et moi, aussi je suis toute émue et émoustillée de cette rencontre avec ces deux paysans, ils étaient trop mignons. Les rencontres de ce genre illuminent littéralement nos journées. Malgré la barrière de la langue, leur spontanéité et leur gratuité de geste sont tellement précieuses. Pour une fois, c’est moi qui ai offert un o-settai.
Rizières en semis
La journée se poursuit au milieu d’exploitations maraîchères en pleine effervescence en ce début de printemps. Les serres à perte de vue, fermées jusqu’à maintenant, s’ouvrent peu à peu.
Nous assistons à l’ensemencement des rizières grâce à des mini-tracteurs qui déposent les semis à intervalles rigoureusement identiques, absolument fascinant à voir !
Cerisiers en fleurs
Et puis nous abandonnons pour un temps, le fidèle ange gardien de notre balisage, le petit pèlerin rouge que nous suivons religieusement chaque jour, pour emprunter une somptueuse allée ombragée de cerisiers au sommet de leur floraison. Que c’est beau ! Les pétales s’envolent et se déposent à la surface du ruisseau qui longe le chemin. Une japonaise en kimono traditionnel pose pour une séance de photos. Son vêtement est de la couleur des fleurs de cerisiers. A ma demande, elle accepte de poser pour nous et se tourne afin que nous puissions la prendre également de dos ! Nous sommes au cœur du rituel des sakuras !
Le temple 30, Zenraku-ji, Joie Sincère
Ce temple se trouve dans les faubourgs de Kochi, grande ville que nous voyons annoncée sur les panneaux depuis plus de cent kilomètres ! Nous y voici enfin. Nous y rencontrons Misushimada, la préposée au tampon et Yasunori, un responsable de ce temple également, tous deux parlant un peu anglais et très curieux de savoir d’où nous venons, où nous allons. Yasunori nous avoue qu’il aimerait beaucoup venir faire le chemin de Compostelle. Nous lui laissons notre adresse mail si un jour il réalise son souhait… Encore une belle rencontre ! Peu de mots en commun mais la chaleur des regards valent tous les discours du monde.
Dîner de ramen
Ce soir nous dormons à l’hôtel Chres, un gros cube de briques en bordure de route dans un faubourg pas très reluisant de la ville. La décoration intérieure est très kitsch, par contre, notre chambre tatami est très confortable et deux femmes de chambre viendront installer nos futons avant la nuit. Nous empruntons les vélos de l’hôtel pour rejoindre un peu plus loin sur l’avenue un restaurant de ramen. C’est la restauration rapide japonaise mais nous apprécions beaucoup ces grands bols de nouilles servies dans un bouillon agrémentées de quelques légumes ou viande et œuf, le repas complet, chaud, vite servi et bien roboratif après une journée de marche.
Petit lexique
- furansu jin : « français » en japonais
- haruki henro : pèlerin à pied
- henro : pèlerin
- honzon : objet de culte et de vénération principal d’un temple auquel on vient faire des offrandes ou adresser des prières
- minshuku : équivalent japonais de la chambre d’hôte, le minshuku est un établissement familial dont les chambres, louées à la clientèle font partie intégrante de la maison.
- onsen : bain thermal chaud dont l’eau est essentiellement issue de source volcanique.
- o-settai : offrande donnée aux pèlerins autant pour les honorer que pour représenter le donateur au cours du pèlerinage
- ramen : plat japonais constitué de nouilles de blé servies dans un bouillon et assorties de morceaux de viande de porc, d’algues, de pousses de bambou fermentées ou encore d’oignons verts. Chaque ville a sa spécialité. Celle de Tokushima est réputée, mais chacun vous dira que sa recette est la meilleure!
- sakura : cerisier japonais, réputé pour la splendeur de sa floraison
- suge-kasa: chapeau traditionnel en osier, de forme conique. Il est doté d’une armature qui, posée sur le haut de la tête, permet à l’air de circuler et de rafraîchir la tête.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur / autrice
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
A propos de l'auteur
CatherineM, 64 ans, est co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior. Grande lectrice et grande marcheuse, elle est actuellement Médecin bénévole pour Médecins du Monde à Paris.
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