27 mars, J8 – 32 kms – Temple 22
Une dernière photo avec Dai ce matin, nous le quittons avec émotion. Bien contente de ne pas avoir mon sac à la perspective de cette grosse journée de marche qui démarre par trois kilomètres de route sillonnant une campagne agricole rustique.
De jolies huttes de henro nous invitent à une petite pause. Ces constructions de bois sont vraiment ravissantes, œuvres récentes dans un but de réhabilitation de ce vieux chemin de pèlerinage sans doute…
Puis nous retrouvons la forêt et ses sentiers où l’on se sent seuls au monde. Des fleurs de camélias jonchent le chemin, une ravissante ferme horticole expose ses carrés à fleurs.
Et nous revoilà accueillis par les charmants cerbères aux visages rubiconds du portique d’entrée du seul temple de la journée, le temple 22.
Le temple 22, Byodo-ji, Egalité, Impartialité
Comme d’habitude, il se mérite au prix d’une multitude de marches à gravir surmontées ici de grands rubans multicolores, précédées par une lignée de bouddhas assis, tous coiffés de bonnets rouges.
Le bassin de purification est une très belle fontaine creusée dans un bloc de pierre grise tapissé au fond d’un mélange de plantes aquatiques. Un jardinier à genoux ôte une par une à la main les mauvaises herbes, un vrai travail en pleine conscience !
Rencontre avec un cèdre historique
A la sortie du temple, une camionnette s’arrête près de nous et son chauffeur nous offre deux petites serviettes, o’settai utile ! Il est maintenant presque midi, il fait très chaud et nous voici sur une très jolie petite route forestière. Nous sommes accostés par une vieille dame qui part dans de grandes explications, le sujet apparemment a l’air hautement important, mais on a beau lui dire qu’on ne comprend pas, « wakarimasen! », elle persiste et nous entraîne sur un chemin en contrebas.
J’espérais naïvement qu’elle allait nous inviter à déjeuner… J’avais cru comprendre qu’il s’agissait de repas dans son histoire… et bien non, elle nous conduit au pied d’un superbe cèdre du Japon de 1 000 ans d’âge où Kukai se serait arrêté pour y prendre son repas ! Un panneau explicatif avec la version anglaise nous a permis d’éclaircir le mystère. Une fois sa mission accomplie, notre vieille dame nous plante là, entrainée par son fils qui commençait à s’exaspérer. Nous ne sommes pas Kukai, il n’y a personne au pied de cet arbre mythique pour nous nourrir ! Mais nous nous ferons tout de même prendre en photo par nos deux larrons avant qu’ils nous abandonnent le ventre vide.
Un déjeuner en bord de ruisseau
Dai, ce matin, n’avait que deux barres énergétiques à nous offrir pour notre déjeuner à venir. Nous ne sommes pas très fan de ce type de nourriture, nous avons faim, chaud et on aimerait bien se poser. Enfin, nous parvenons à un petit village où se trouve une épicerie, un minuscule magasin où s’entassent dans un fourbi innommable quelques nourritures et petits produits de droguerie. La vendeuse est une dame aussi rustique que sa boutique. Il va falloir se contenter de « buns » fourrés à la pâte de haricots rouges et de bâtonnets façon surimi, spécialité de Tokushima. Nous recevrons en cadeau deux petites canettes que j’ai prises pour du coca. Malheureusement il s’agit d’un liquide blanchâtre indéfinissable et malheureusement imbuvable …
Nous partagerons notre glorieux pique-nique au bord d’un ruisseau dont la clarté de l’eau laisse sérieusement à désirer.
Au bout du tunnel, le Pacifique !
Nous retrouvons la route et traversons trois tunnels, l’horreur ! Lorsqu’on est engagé dans ces tubes de béton routiers et qu’un véhicule y pénètre on a l’impression qu’un régiment de chars d’assaut se précipite sur nous et, si c’est un camion, l’appel d’air généré lorsqu’il nous double me fait presque vaciller. Une expérience particulièrement insécurisante, le sentiment de ne point être du tout là où il faudrait. Si je voyais, en France, des piétons dans cette situation, je les prendrais pour des cinglés.
Mais la récompense est au bout du tunnel, nous retrouvons la côte, et le Pacifique s’offre à nous dans toute son immensité avec Tainohama Beach, un vrai enchantement. J’envoie un petit hello à mon amie Marie-Élisabeth en face côté américain !
La côte rocheuse se poursuit avec ses nombreux petits ports où sèchent de grands filets de pêche couleur vermillon.
Le Pacifique sera notre compagnon de route pour les prochaines centaines de kilomètres. Cette perspective me ravit.
La guest-house Oyado-Hiwasa
En attendant, nous en avons plein les jambes et la guest-house Oyado-Hiwasa où nous dormons ce soir est la bienvenue ! Nous avons d’ailleurs pas mal erré dans la ville avant de la trouver. Elle est tenue par un français et son épouse japonaise, la communication ce soir sera donc nettement plus aisée. Le repas du soir n’est pas prévu dans les guest-houses et aujourd’hui tous les restaurants du coin sont fermés car le mercredi est le jour de fermeture du marché au poisson.
Nous partons donc faire nos courses au supermarché du quartier et, finalement, nous nous concocterons un dîner royal avec sashimis, pâtes aux légumes, yaourt et fraises, pris dans la minuscule cuisine de la guest-house aménagée dans une belle maison traditionnelle en bois joliment restaurée qui a 100 ans d’âge. Notre hôte français nous confie avoir passé deux années complètes à réaliser cette belle réhabilitation. Nous retrouvons ce soir notre jeune coréenne rencontrée il y a deux jours. C’est d’ailleurs sur ses conseils que nous sommes ici ce soir. Egalement, Amy, une jeune chinoise, vivant à Hong-Kong mais originaire de Beijing.
Petit lexique
- o-settai : offrande donnée aux pèlerins autant pour les honorer que pour représenter le donateur au cours du pèlerinage
- wakarimasen : je ne sais pas, je ne comprends pas
Quelques mots sur l’auteur / autrice
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples. Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
Chers Catherine et Bernard,
Merci pour ce récit de voyage passionnant. On a vraiment l’impression de marcher avec vous sur les routes… (Sans le poids du sac-à-dos et l’inconfort des ampoules!!!)
Malheureusement, les photos n’apparaissent pas sur mon ordinateur. Je vais donc tenter de lire le blog sur mon téléphone. On ne sait jamais…
Bonne journée!
.
Right on my man!
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Avrupa’nın en güvenilir medyum hocalarından medyum haluk yıldız hocamız siz değerli kardeşlerimize yardım eli uzatıyor.
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