24 avril – J36 – 14kms – Temples 48, 49, 50, 51
Nous égrenons les temples ce matin, quatre temples au programme, ce qui ralentit sérieusement le rythme de marche. Après une première traversée de campagne sophistiquée avec au loin les montagnes bleutées se fondant dans des nuages chargés d’humidité, nous rejoignons rapidement les faubourgs de Matsuyama et ses nombreuses et belles maisons traditionnelles. L’entrebâillement de certaines portes d’entrée nous laisse deviner de magnifiques jardins aux végétaux parfaitement sculptés. Nous sommes ici dans la capitale de la préfecture d’Ehime, ville natale de ma prof de japonais de Bruxelles.
Le temple 48, Sairin-ji, la Forêt de l’Ouest
Temple 48, Sairin-ji, la Forêt de l’Ouest, où d’énormes carpes koï s’ébattent dans le petit étang du jardin au pied d’un bouddha en parfaite position de lotus. Je poursuis ma collection de cordages et de gongs…
Le temple 49, Jodo-ji, la Terre Pure
Temple 49, Jodo-ji, la Terre Pure et sa pierre avec l’empreinte des pieds de Bouddha, ses belles pivoines arbustives jaunes. Les cerbères du portique d’entrée ont toujours l’air aussi accueillant…mais nos sacs retrouvent avec bonheur leur banc bleu délavé pendant que nous déambulons.
Nous poursuivons notre chemin guidés par nos fidèles balisages de petits henros tout à fait explicites.
Avant de rejoindre le temple 50, situé sur une petite colline, nous traversons un grand cimetière, rien de surprenant à cela, les lieux de sépulture ici ne sont pas dans des enceintes fermées comme chez nous. Ce n’est pas la première fois que notre route ou notre sentier chemine ainsi au milieu de tombes étroites quasi identiques avec chacune leur brûleur à encens, leurs vases à fleurs et leurs stèles, parallélépipèdes élancés où sont gravés les noms des défunts ou de la famille avec au centre le sceau ou symbole familial, le kamon. Derrière de nombreuses tombes, se dressent des planches de bois, les sotobas où sont inscrits les kaimyo, nouveau nom que l’on donne aux morts après leur passage dans l’autre vie. Très souvent, les visiteurs ont laissé un cadeau au défunt, quelque chose qu’il aimait bien de son vivant, ainsi verrons-nous souvent des canettes de bière !
Le temple 50, Hanta-ji, la Grande Prospérité
Nous voici donc au Hanta-ji, la Grande Prospérité. Le plafond en caissons du clocher est orné de ravissantes peintures très colorées. Dans chaque caisson, une scène raconte l’histoire de personnages inconnus pour nous béotiens de cette culture. Les couleurs vives et chaudes, la multitude de figurants humains ou animaux, peints avec une extrême minutie du détail offrent un tableau en bande dessinée charmant.
Nous sommes maintenant en pleine ville et se multiplient des enseignes assez surprenantes et amusantes : des noms français pas toujours à-propos et avec quelques fautes orthographiques touchantes.
Le temple 51, Ishite-ji, la Main à la Pierre
Nous atteignons enfin en pleine ville le temple 51, Ishite-ji, la Main à la Pierre où règne une drôle d’ambiance. Loin de la quiétude habituelle, ce sanctuaire dont certains bâtiments sont classés « trésors nationaux » accueille une foule importante à l’allure plus touristique que pèlerine. La rue couverte qui mène jusqu’au temple est jalonnée de restaurants, boutiques de souvenirs et spécialités locales. Une ambiance bien commerciale et à mille lieues du recueillement auquel nous avions pris goût. Ce capharnaüm de marchands du temple nous donne envie de fuir au plus vite.
Udon, soba et o-settai gourmands pour le déjeuner
Il est l’heure de déjeuner, il fait chaud et nous n’avons guère le courage de nous éterniser dans la recherche d’un restaurant, aussi tentons-nous notre chance dans une gargote de bois que nous avions repérée à l’aller à l’entrée de cette rue détestable. Le lieu s’avère finalement charmant. Nous nous régalons d’un bol de udon aux légumes pour Bernard, soba pour moi, servis par une ravissante jeune femme et préparés par un jeune chef en cravate. J’hériterai en plus d’un beau magnet rouge, silhouette d’un henro, que j’avais repéré sur le frigo. A ma question « où puis-je en acheter un » ce fut la réponse « o-settai » ! Plus deux oyaki, délicieuses galettes sucrées fourrées à la pâte de haricots, spécialités de Matsuyama.
Dans la boutique en face de l’entrée du temple, où deux dames les fabriquent devant nous, nous en achèterons cinq supplémentaires et en recevrons une en cadeau toute chaude ! Inouï ce pays, dès que nous achetons quelque chose, nous recevons un supplément en cadeau.
Ce matin, en passant devant une maison, siège d’une association de « mamies », nous lisions leur gentil mot d’accueil à destination des henros, deux d’entr’elles sont sorties pour nous offrir des bonbons et deux pendentifs « sandalettes » qu’elles fabriquent sans doute elles-mêmes. Et nous avons eu droit à l’exubérance tout à fait japonaise de leurs réactions devant deux henros étrangers, furansu en prime.
Et dans le nokyocho d’un des temples, nous avons également reçu une poignée de bonbons et deux galettes ! Bref notre dose de sucre de la journée est largement assurée !
Expérience du bain collectif au célèbre Dôgo Onsen
Nous déposons rapidement nos sacs à l’hôtel Dogo Yaya, un établissement moderne au design épuré et raffiné qui offre dans l’entrée un self-service de différents jus d’agrumes frais. Notre chambre est minuscule mais très fonctionnelle et parfaite. Et nous filons rapidement au Dogo Onsen, l’institution très réputée de Matsuyama, le plus célèbre établissement thermal du Japon dont les eaux soufrées sont réputées pour le traitement des rhumatismes et des névralgies. Un superbe édifice de trois étages aux multiples toits en accents circonflexes, tel un château tout en bois. Selon la légende, la source aurait été découverte grâce à un héron blessé à la patte qui serait sorti guéri après s’être baigné dans les sources du Dôgo…
…Au Nord-Est de Matsuyama se trouvent les sept sources du Dôgo Onsen, probablement les plus anciennes du Japon : on s’y baigne au moins depuis le VIIIème siécle. Le bâtiment qui les abrite date, lui, de la fin du XIXème siècle : il dresse sa jolie charpente de bois, surmontée d’aigrettes, au milieu d’un quartier très fréquenté, notamment par les baigneurs qui se baladent nonchalamment en yukata dans les rues piétonnes.
C’est le maire du quartier qui fît bâtir le Dôgo Onsen Honkan, son bâtiment principal (1894), dans l’idée de faire de Matsuyama une ville balnéaire. Tout en bois et d’inspiration Meiji, cet imposant bâtiment à trois étages recèle un véritable labyrinthe de couloirs, balcons et salons. Le yûshinden, bain impérial, ajouté à l’ancienne structure en 1899, dispose d’une entrée et d’un bain séparés….
Une expérience incontournable, sauf que nous n’avions pas saisi que l’établissement était en rénovation pour quelques années, deux étages étaient donc fermés au public et un seul bain disponible ! Ce fut une grosse déception et l’accueil à l’intérieur du style très commercial, bref un attrape- touriste de premier ordre. Nous nous étions donné rendez-vous deux heures plus tard, histoire d’expérimenter sans se presser les différents bains et lieux de relaxation, trente minutes après nous être séparés nous étions dehors ! La ville comporte pas mal de onsen publics et notamment un très moderne où nous étions passés devant, cela aurait été sans aucun doute un choix plus judicieux.
Un peu d’embarras sur le chemin de retour vers l’hôtel du soir
Après cet intermède thermal un peu raté, nous partons à la recherche de nouvelles chaussures pour Bernard qui depuis quelques jours marche avec des sandales de rando certes confortables mais très légères. Merci Google encore une fois qui un, nous indique deux adresses de « mountain » boutiques et deux, nous conduit sans problème au magasin le plus proche. Le choix est un peu limité mais le gérant est de très bon conseil et fort sympathique.
Voilà une bonne chose de faite ! Les pieds de Bernard vont pouvoir poursuivre leur chemin.
De retour vers notre hôtel, dans une rue bien pentue, nous croisons un vieux japonais qui nous parait en grande difficulté. Il se tient au mur et ne semble plus capable d’avancer. Dans notre japonais précaire nous lui demandons si ça va, s’il veut de l’aide… Semblant ignorer notre question, il nous demande d’où nous venons ?!!! Arrivent deux haruki henros japonais auxquels nous transmettons nos préoccupations quant à leur compatriote, soulagés de nous délester d’un support que nous étions incapables d’assumer efficacement. S’en suit une discussion entre les trois et conclusion : Tout va bien ! Et voilà nos deux harukis qui repartent en laissant ce pauvre homme reprendre sa marche tant bien que mal !
Il nous avait montré une bosse au front et j’avais eu la mauvaise impression qu’il présentait une légère paralysie du côté droit… Malheureusement, nous sommes incapables d’apporter un quelconque secours, nous n’avons pas de ligne téléphonique et de toute façon qui appellerions nous ? Nous repartons donc avec une mauvaise conscience certaine.
La Golden Week approche …
Pendant notre absence, le garçon de la réception de l’hôtel s’est décarcassé pour nous débrouiller nos réservations d’hébergement durant cette fichue Golden Week. Voyant qu’il parlait bien anglais, je lui avais exposé notre problème et lui avais laissé, la liste des hôtels, auberges envisagés. Remarquable d’efficacité et de disponibilité, ce charmant garçon à notre retour nous rend compte de ses recherches, certaines fructueuses mais la semaine n’est pas encore complètement bouclée, quelle galère !
Le soir autour du Dogo Onsen, nous croisons pas mal de gens en yukata et tongues, se baladant ainsi habillés dans la rue tout à fait naturellement. Seul notre regard occidental semble trouver cela incongru ! La culture du onsen dans ce pays fait partie du quotidien.
Au menu du dîner, pizza Margherita dans un restaurant italien du quartier. Il a plu une bonne partie de l’après-midi, chance, nous n’étions pas sur la route !
Quelques mots sur l’auteur
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
Le Dogo Onsen était toujours en rénovation cet automne. Ce jour-là, nous y avons vu une vingtaine de collégiennes. Chose inhabituelle pour nous.
Nous avons dormi 2 nuits au tsuyado du temple 51. Le dortoir comprend une centaine de places et nous n’étions que 4 le premier soir et 5 le suivant. Pendant les 2 mois de pèlerinage, nous avons toujours trouvé de la place pour 4 dans ces hébergements proposés gratuitement par les temples.
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