23 avril – J35 – 20 kms –Temples 46 & 47
A peine sortis de notre auberge, nous passons quelques minutes autour d’une drôle de cabine téléphonique qui doit être tout autre chose mais quoi ? Bernard l’avait déjà repérée hier soir. Nous sommes assez perplexes et élucubrons sur l’usage possible de cette étrange machine mais nous repartirons sans la clef du mystère…
Au bout de la forêt, un jardinier bien sympathique
La journée débute comme on aime, de la forêt, du dénivelé et en fond sonore les oiseaux et les ruisseaux ! Pourtant nos sacs sont lourds mais j’adore attaquer ainsi la journée, seuls en montagne. Le sentier tapissé des feuilles sèches des cèdres est tout doux aux pieds (dixit Bernard). Mais cet intermède a une fin, nous retrouvons la civilisation au sommet du col en la personne d’un ouvrier-jardinier de la voirie que nous interrogeons sur la direction à prendre.
Le voilà parti dans de grandes explications, malgré nos «wakarimasen » (je ne comprends pas), il continue de causer. C’est amusant de voir comme les gens se comportent avec les étrangers. On a beau leur signifier notre incompréhension, ils insistent dans leurs explications, tentent de parler plus fort comme si le volume sonore pouvait aider… pour finalement renoncer et nous accompagner physiquement jusqu’à notre destination si celle-ci n’est pas trop lointaine. Notre jardinier nous précède donc jusqu’au croisement suivant et repart dans sa logorrhée explicative et totalement hermétique pour nous.
On se sent un peu demeurés dans ce genre de situation. Quel personnage adorable, cela vaut bien sûr une photo pour immortaliser notre rencontre.
Après quatre kilomètres de route bien passante, nous retrouvons le calme et déjeunons dans une hutte près d’un ruisseau avec les onigiris aux algues préparés par notre auberge ce matin. De vrais étouffe-bouddhiste ces onigiris mais cela nourrit le pèlerin qui repart bien lesté !
Des fermes du bout d’un monde rural et éloigné
Notre petite route remonte une vallée où les fermes sont bien rustiques. La tôle ondulée semble être le matériau de construction de prédilection du coin, ce qui laisse supposer un milieu rural peu fortuné. C’est même du domaine du sinistré. Sans parler de toutes les saletés, objets et outils abandonnés en voie de décomposition qui jonchent les abords de ces fermes misérables.
Heureusement que quelques jardins fleuris égayent le paysage. Pour la première fois, un hangar à bestiaux, entièrement vide d’ailleurs. Où sont passées les vaches ? Il y a peu d’élevage à Shikoku.
Toilettes « Heritage ». Quelle leçon pour nous, français …
Et au milieu de tout cela, une hutte toilettes classée «Japan Heritage » !!! Depuis le début de ce pèlerinage, les stop-toilettes ont été pour nous une source inépuisable d’émerveillement. Il y en a partout, toujours très propres avec papier-toilette toujours disponible et dans 80% des cas, le choix entre mode japonais et mode « western-style » et dans ce dernier cas, les cuvettes offrent le luxe d’abattants chauffés ! Notre Europe et la France plus particulièrement aurait de sérieuses leçons à en tirer… Donc, ici en plus le coin toilettes est érigé au statut d’Héritage National. Il était donc de notre devoir de les utiliser !
Un peu plus loin, quelques mamies s’adonnent à un sport qui a l’air d’être prisé par le 3ème âge dans ce pays : le croquet ! Toutes aussi petites et tordues les unes que les autres, elles ont vraiment du mérite ces vieilles femmes de faire de l’exercice physique avec l’état désastreux de leur colonne vertébrale et de leurs membres inférieurs !
Le temple 46 Joruri-ji, la Lumière de Lapis lazuli,
Nous parvenons au temple 46 en début d’après-midi, le Joruri-ji, la Lumière de Lapis lazuli, où une pierre avec l’empreinte des pieds de Bouddha est supposée guérir tous les maux de pieds si vous posez les vôtres dans ces traces…Les préposés au tampon du Nokyocho nous offrent des bananes, premier o-settai du jour.
Mais un autre o’settai nous attend juste à côté du temple : un superbe jardin de pivoines arbustives en fleurs. Dommage que ces massifs soient encagés ! La taille de ces fleurs est impressionnante, elles déclinent toute une palette de rose et rouge éclatants. Les blanches en contraste sont lumineuses. Trois copines prennent leur goûter sur le petit salon de pierre du coin, sans doute après s’être promenées dans ce beau jardin.
Notre hébergement se trouvant juste de l’autre côté de la rue, nous y déposons nos sacs avant de faire un petit aller-retour au temple 47 qui se trouve à un kilomètre seulement. Une vraie usine à pèlerins ce pseudo-ryokan mais l’accueil y est très chaleureux. Tout est neuf et super clean à l’intérieur et nous avons droit à une chambre avec salle de bain privée. De temps en temps cela fait du bien d’échapper au furo commun !
Le temple 47 Yasaka-ji, temple des Huit Pentes
Le Yasaka-ji, temple des Huit Pentes, comme son voisin est au milieu du village. Le dragon de la fontaine purificatrice n’a pas l’air très content, il crache son eau de manière furieuse. Un grand bassin planté de lotus nous laisse imaginer sa beauté en temps de floraison… Le spectacle doit être splendide. Une galerie encerclant le sanctuaire principal abrite des centaines de bouddhas ou bodhisattvas sagement assis en position de lotus.
Durant le dîner, grâce encore et toujours à Google Translate nous lions conversation avec nos voisines japonaises, originaires d’Osaka et faisant le pèlerinage en bus et train. Elles sont très impressionnées d’apprendre que nous le réalisons dans son intégralité à pied, elles ont tout à fait raison ! J’adore quand nos interlocuteurs prennent cet air ahuri quand on leur annonce que nous marchons depuis plus d’un mois et que nous comptons clôturer le tour de la même manière. En fait, ils doivent se demander pourquoi, nous, non bouddhistes, nous imposons une telle épreuve. Mais bien sûr la bienséance japonaise interdit toute question à ce sujet.
L’après-dîner est consacré à la réflexion quant à notre itinéraire et les options d’hébergements en prévision de cette fichue golden-week. La personne de l’accueil débordant de gentillesse ne sait que faire pour nous aider et se préoccupe du transport de notre sac pour le temple 66 perché au sommet d’une montagne. Ce n’est pas du tout notre priorité du moment.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
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