22 avril – J34 – 14 kms – Temple 45
Deux chemins d’accès s’offrent à nous pour rejoindre le temple 45 à 7 kms à peine de notre ryokan, un par la montagne et l’autre tout plat le long de la rivière. Nous choisissons la voie forestière, certes plus sportive mais sans aucun doute plus sauvage, pour l’aller. L’ascension est ardue mais un vrai bonheur de cheminer dans cette superbe forêt majestueuse.
Nous aurons même droit au bonjour d’un écureuil.
L’arrivée au temple est inattendue puisque, pour la première fois, nous y accédons par le haut et donc nous le surplombons. Le sentier, sur sa portion terminale, est jalonné de statues de bouddhas, 36 au total. Devant chacune de ces stèles, une corbeille pour recueillir les osame-fuda où chacun écrit ses vœux, une vulgaire mini-poubelle en plastique en fait qui va gâcher la plupart de mes photos ! Et une cuvette pour les dons en monnaie trébuchante.
Nous passerons un temps fou sur ce chemin escarpé à dénicher et immortaliser sur notre pellicule tous ces petits bouddhas dont certains sont affublés de ce drôle de bavoir traditionnel. Quelques stèles ont été perchées dans une faille entre deux énormes rochers, fermée par une porte en bois. Nous aurions été sensés, pour les voir, grimper grâce à des cordes, des échelles et des chaînes…. mais l’accès en est aujourd’hui interdit.
Le temple 45 Iwaya-ji, La Caverne
Et soudain au détour de notre sentier, apparait le portique d’accès du temple Iwaya-ji, La Caverne. Cette porte est comme une fenêtre sur la lumière.
Au-delà de son seuil, un vieil escalier de pierre descend vers le monastère, constitué de deux bâtiments, blottis au pied d’une falaise. En surplomb se niche une grotte, ancien refuge d’ermite, accessible par une échelle. Aujourd’hui, nous ne sommes pas pressés, aussi nous attardons-nous longuement en ce lieu assez impressionnant et insolite. La charpente très ouvragée des deux sanctuaires collés à la montagne est superbe, des entrelacs de poutres de bois toutes en courbes.
Prières et contemplation
Je me pose comme d’habitude sur un banc bleu et pendant que Bernard part accomplir nos rituels et à la pêche aux images, je me plonge dans mon activité favorite dans ces lieux de prières, la contemplation… Une contemplation pas vraiment mystique, en fait je deviens spectatrice de ce qui se passe et ici je ne suis pas déçue. Un flot ininterrompu de pèlerins arrivent par le chemin du bas que nous prendrons tout à l’heure pour redescendre et à l’issue des dernières marches, ils semblent tous fort essoufflés et expriment un réel soulagement d’être enfin parvenus au but. La plupart ne sont certainement pas des haruki mais des pèlerins de bus ou de voiture.
Soudain je me concentre sur un groupe de femmes japonaises accompagnées vraisemblablement par un moine. Je ne me lasse pas d’écouter ces mélopées lancinantes scandées sur une seule note qui égrène le sutra du cœur, le répétant trois fois devant chaque sanctuaire. Le moine rythme leurs chants à l’unisson en agitant une cloche et son mokugyo, un instrument de percussion composé d’un bloc de bois que l’on frappe avec un maillet à rythme régulier. Une manière, parait-il de canaliser le mental discursif, la répétition des sons étant réputée en outre comme bénéfiques pour le corps et l’esprit… C’est assez fascinant à voir et écouter.
La grande échelle, ou comment le Bouddha veille sur ses fidèles
Bernard m’a rejoint et nous avons droit à un spectacle assez étonnant et fort divertissant. Le moine s’est imaginé de faire monter son groupe dans la grotte de l’ermite où trône un bouddha. Mais pour cela il faut grimper à l’échelle dressée contre la paroi. Toutes ces dames étant d’un certain âge et pas très sportives apparemment, le moine leur explique tout d’abord comment on grimpe à une échelle avec démonstration pratique à l’appui. Celle-ci, particulièrement raide avec en outre un écart de barreaux démesuré, est un vrai défi !
Oh surprise, elles se décident toutes, sauf deux, à se hisser à la suite de leur gourou, fort péniblement, pas rassurées du tout malgré les encouragements du moine qui les accueille tout en haut en leur tendant une main salvatrice pour franchir le dernier échelon. Une fois tout ce petit monde courageux réuni sur cette terrasse creusée dans la falaise, ils repartent dans la récitation de leurs sutras.
La redescente est encore plus laborieuse et je ne peux pas m’empêcher de féliciter ces dames lorsqu’elles passent devant nous, provoquant leurs rires complices, elles sont toutes émoustillées comme des ados et le moine ne fait pas exception à l’hilarité générale.
La curiosité rend aventureuse …
Personne, parmi tous ces pèlerins qui défilent, en dehors de ce groupe, ne se hasarde à grimper dans cette grotte. Je mourrais d’envie de grimper à cette échelle et me suis donc lancée dans cette ascension suite à l’exemple auquel je venais d’assister. Les échelons étaient bien indécemment démesurés, rendant la montée particulièrement vertigineuse. Parvenue au sommet, je n’ai pas eu le courage d’enjamber le dernier échelon, je n’étais pas du tout rassurée. Incroyable ce que ce moine a fait faire à ce groupe de pèlerines âgées ! Mais la Foi donne des ailes…et sauve !
En redescendant, un monsieur m’a fait remarquer qu’il était écrit sur un panneau à côté de l’échelle qu’il était dangereux et donc pas recommandé de grimper ! Mais ne lisant pas le japonais, nous n’avions pu déchiffrer l’avertissement. Voilà pourquoi personne ne s’aventurait à cet exercice.
O-settai pieux sur les lieux du temple
Deux japonaises nous ont offerts leurs osame-fuda, très colorés, ce qui signifie qu’elles ont accompli ce pèlerinage de nombreuses fois, certainement en voiture mais bon, elles l’ont fait ! L’une d’entre elles nous ayant vu pénétrer dans la grotte creusée dans le rocher un peu plus bas sous le sanctuaire principal qui était, elle, dans une obscurité quasi totale, s’est empressée de nous accompagner nous éclairant d’abord avec sa lampe de poche. Elle nous a donné ensuite deux petites bougies que nous avons, sur ses conseils, déposées au pied de la statue du Kukai ou je ne sais quelle autre divinité tout au fond de la grotte. Puis elle a rapidement récité une prière, s’est inclinée, et nous avons fait de même, bien disciplinés. Enfin, elle s’est ensuite assurée que nous sortions sains et saufs de ce sanctuaire ! Cette rencontre fut l’o-settai du jour !
Après toutes ces émotions il ne nous restait plus qu’à entamer notre descente vers le parking d’où venaient tous ces gens que nous avions vus défiler. Nous avons compris pourquoi ils arrivaient tous en nage et essoufflés. Le sentier, jalonné d’étendards, plonge dans la vallée, et il nous faut bien vingt minutes pour rejoindre la route, en descente directe. Donc pour monter, c’était pour tous ces gens, peu habitués à marcher, leur BA du jour.
Et bien entendu, avant d’atteindre le parking, des boutiques vendant articles religieux et friandises se multiplient. Nous succomberons à la tentation.
Fin d’étape fleurie
Notre charmant chemin de retour longe la rivière puis traverse une belle cerisaie encore fleurie.
Puis nous pénétrons à nouveau dans les bois et suivons un ruisseau, croisons une paysanne avec un ingénieux sac à dos de paille de riz lui permettant sans doute de transporter sa récolte.
Auberge du soir et kilomètres !
Ainsi retrouvons-nous notre ryokan après un stop à l’épicerie locale pour le pique-nique de demain, aucun Lawson ou Family Mart n’étant signalé sur le parcours.
Ce soir, nous avons parcouru depuis le début 782 kilomètres. Notre guide en comptabilise 745 par le chemin le plus court. Ce qui signifie que nous avons fait 40 kilomètres de plus et cela parce que nous choisissons toujours d’emprunter les chemins de traverse afin d’échapper aux routes principales lorsque l’option nous est proposée, contrairement à beaucoup d’haruki-henro.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance. Au programme : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrons au jour le jour ….
Moi non plus je n’ai pas pu grimper à cette echelle ! Mais mes 3 compagnons de route (26, 29 et 32 ans) n’ont pas hésité une seconde…
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