21 avril – J33 – 23 kms – Temple 44
Nous faisons nos au revoir à Okada en se donnant rendez-vous à Osaka où il nous invite à le recontacter afin de partager une soirée avec son épouse qui aimerait bien, dit-il, nous rencontrer. Ce sera avec grand plaisir, tu fus, Ami Okada, un compagnon de chemin tellement charmant et attentionné et nous avons bien ri ensemble.
En attendant, Osaka nous parait bien loin encore et un beau trajet nous attend aujourd’hui. Une petite route de montagne et des sentiers nous mènent jusqu’au temple 44, avec un dénivelé positif de 600 mètres à gravir. Je redoutais un peu cette montée avec nos sacs à dos mais finalement, c’est fort agréable.
Chemin en forêt
L’ascension n’est pas abrupte mais régulière et progressive sur des sentiers forestiers ombragés et hospitaliers. Nous accompagnent le grincement des arbres centenaires, la mélodie des ruisseaux, le chant des oiseaux et le silence de notre solitude, bref le contexte idéal pour succuler le plaisir de la marche itinérante. Rien à voir avec la traversée du Mayumi tunnel auparavant où, durant 700 mètres, nous marchions sur un étroit trottoir dans la semi-obscurité. A chaque passage de véhicule, nous avions la sensation d’être emportés par le déplacement d’air, assourdis par le vacarme des moteurs dès qu’un véhicule pénétrait dans le tunnel. Dans ces conditions, 700 mètres à pied, c’est long !
Dès le col franchi, nous redescendons sur l’autre versant, et pique-niquons assis sur un tronc tombé au-dessus d’un ruisseau. L’eau est omni-présente à Shikoku, océan, mer, fleuve, rivière, canaux d’irrigation, ruisseau et même rizières avant la plantation des semis.
Daiho-ji, le Temple du Grand Joyau
Notre halte au Daiho-ji, le Temple du Grand Joyau est un vrai moment de jouissance et de ravissement. Aujourd’hui, c’est jour de Pâques en terre chrétienne, pour célébrer cela, nous sonnons allègrement la grosse cloche espérant que nos vœux, tels tous ces osame-fuda accrochés, franchiront océans, montagnes et plaines pour souhaiter Joyeuses Pâques à la famille !
Il fait un temps radieux et les jardins du temple sont une explosion de couleurs avec prunus et camélias en fleurs au cœur de la forêt.
Nous retrouvons Hiroyasu qui revient du temple 45, pour nous au programme de demain, et Michèle, toute contente de ne plus être gênée par sa tendinite. Nous rencontrons un japonais parlant très bien français, un vrai haruki-henro préférant dormir dehors. Ces retrouvailles ou ces rencontres lors de nos haltes dans les temples sont toujours fort agréables et chaleureuses, on échange nos impressions, on partage nos friandises. Et chacun repart riche de ces instants d’amitié spontanée.
Et une nouvelle grimpette !
Le sentier nous conduit ensuite au col de Tonomido à 730 mètres d’altitude. Nouvelle grimpette bien raide, encouragés en chemin par un bouddha en prière à l’abri de son igloo de pierres.
Puis nous retrouvons une petite route au bord de laquelle comme chaque jour de vieux paysans travaillent dans leurs champs, souvent cassés en deux, à se demander comment ils peuvent se relever ! Ou bien quelque mamie assise par terre, qui entretient son jardin, son déambulateur-poussette à proximité.
Grand confort à l’auberge du soir pour parachever une belle journée
Nous parvenons ainsi à notre hébergement du soir, le ryokan Hacchozaka, réputé pour son « organic food », recommandé par Okada. Tout un groupe de japonais nous précède, ce qui nous fait craindre le pire…mais non, nous sommes accueillis avec thé et daifukus. J’adore ces pâtisseries fourrées à la pâte de haricots rouges et celles-ci ont en plus une fraise à l’intérieur, un délice ! Dommage qu’on ait droit qu’à un par personne…
Nous héritons d’une chambre avec lits jumeaux mais un futon recouvre le matelas, double confort garanti ! Le furo est top ! Cette fois-ci j’aurais le privilège de partager mon temps de toilette et bain avec deux japonaises faisant partie du groupe que nous avons croisé en arrivant et, pour parfaire la soirée, des udon très savoureux au dîner. Le temple 45, situé en plein massif montagneux n’est pas très loin mais oblige à repasser par ici pour poursuivre le chemin, aussi avons-nous prévu de re-dormir au Hacchozaka demain soir. Nous passons la soirée à concocter la suite du programme. La Golden Week approche, du 27 avril au 6 mai, cela va être compliqué de trouver des hébergements apparemment durant cette période. Nous serions sensés réserver toute la semaine à l’avance. Il s’agit d’une année exceptionnelle pour le Japon, ils changent d’ère et d’empereur !!!
O-settai du jour, que de gentillesse encore
Pas d’œufs en chocolat en ce jour de Pâques mais deux o-settai dont un très touchant : un peu avant le déjeuner, je m’étais assise sur un banc devant une maison traditionnelle ancienne en attendant Bernard qui s’était attardé pour prendre des photos. De l’autre côté de la route, une petite dame assise à même le sol nettoyait sa haie. Bernard m’ayant rejointe, nous la regardions œuvrer, très admiratifs car il faisait bien chaud. Soudain, elle s’est relevée, s’est accrochée à sa poussette-déambulateur et a traversé péniblement la route pour rejoindre sa maison, mitoyenne de celle où nous étions arrêtés. A sa démarche, nous avons deviné qu‘elle était handicapée.
Nous l’avons vu disparaitre et réapparaître quelques minutes plus tard. Toujours accrochée à son véhicule, elle s’est dirigée laborieusement vers nous et nous a offert deux canettes bien fraîches en nous disant qu’il faisait bien chaud aujourd’hui. Nous avons eu à peine le temps de balbutier nos arigato gozaimas (merci beaucoup) qu’elle repartait en nous lançant l’incontournable : Gambatte kudasai! Kio tsukete ! (bon courage, prenez soin de vous) et a disparu à nouveau à l’intérieur de sa maison.
Elle était trop mignonne cette petite dame, son geste nous a beaucoup touchés, nous avons bu ce jus de tomate bien frais avec délectation et ainsi revigorés à la fois par la boisson et cette rencontre nous avons vaillamment repris nos bâtons de pèlerin.
Le deuxième o-settai fut une tasse de thé offerte dans la boutique au bas du temple 44 où nous nous étions arrêtés pour acheter un deuxième livre pour nos tampons de temples. Le nôtre est déjà quasi plein, apparemment nous n’avons pas su choisir le bon modèle.
Un grand merci pour ce récit de voyage à Shikoku.
Très agréable à lire, et donnant envie d’y retourner après le Covid.
Ki wo tsukete
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50 kg. Extintor carro 25 kg abc y carro 50 kg ABC.
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