12 avril – J24 – 24 kms – Temple 38
Vite fuyons cette auberge ! Le petit déjeuner est tout aussi affligeant que le dîner, je n’avalerai qu’un peu de riz blanc avec des feuilles d’algues séchées. Je suis un peu désolée pour notre hôtesse qui fait ce qu’elle peut pour nous être agréable mais, malheureusement, cette maison est d’une tristesse trop désespérante.
Fort heureusement, le Lawson tout proche nous permettra de compléter notre petit déjeuner et de ne pas démarrer la journée le ventre vide, point crucial pour un déroulement serein de la matinée de marche à venir.
Nous reprenons la route sur 4 kilomètres et nous délestons d’un de nos sacs au minshuku Okinohama où nous dormirons demain soir de retour du temple 38 qui se trouve à l’extrémité du cap Ashizuki, notre destination du jour.
Paysage de plage et d’agrumes
Une superbe plage s’étend devant nous, quelques surfeurs de bon matin s’égaient dans les vagues, le soleil brille inondant de lumière nos pas. Quel bonheur de marcher dans le sable au bord de l’eau, cela fait un bien fou après notre épisode glauque de la nuit. Tout au bout de la plage, le sentier se hisse dans un sous-bois avant de rejoindre les villages côtiers. Les plantations d’agrumes ont remplacé les rizières. Un paysan, à l’œuvre dans son champ à notre passage, cueille quatre oranges sur un arbre et nous les offre, premier o-settai du jour. Et en chemin, nous en achetons un sac dans une cabane self-service. Ces fruits sont de véritables bénédictions durant nos heures de marche, comme ces méga-yaourts que l’on trouve dans les kombinis.
Où l’on fabrique le poisson fumé …
Nous arrivons en fin de matinée à l’entrée d’un port où nous comptons déjeuner, notre guide y indique un restaurant et une épicerie. En attendant, nous longeons d’immenses hangars empestant le poisson fumé à plein nez. Tout semble à l’abandon avec un entassement à l’extérieur de grilles rouillées et de caisses qui paraissent dater d’une autre ère. Je passe mon chemin pressée de fuir cette odeur insupportable. Bernard, très curieux, s’attarde pour prendre quelques photos et pénètre dans les bâtiments. Il s’agit en fait d’une usine à sécher le poisson, des sardines en particulier, tout à fait en état de marche.
En regardant les photos, cela finit de me convaincre que le poisson fumé n’est vraiment pas mon truc ! Quant aux conditions de travail des ouvriers et ouvrières de ce type d’usine, c’est tout simplement révoltant.
Et le chemin continue …
Le restaurant est fermé, l’épicerie introuvable… et il commence à pleuvoir… Nous nous réfugions sur les marches d’un petit temple à l’abri de son auvent pour partager nos maigres provisions. Sans aucun doute un sacrilège de s’asseoir sur les marches du temple et en plus d’y manger… Les rares personnes de passage auront la délicatesse de ne rien dire… « Ah, ces étrangers, ils n’ont aucune éducation ni respect ! » auront-ils peut-être pensé…
Les kilomètres de l’après-midi me semblent sans fin. Nous parvenons enfin au cap Ashizuri Misaki avec la réapparition d’un soleil oh combien bienvenu ! Voici la patrie de John Manjiro dont nous découvrons la statue majestueuse dressée en son honneur. C’était un pêcheur qui, tel Robinson Crusoé, fit naufrage en 1841 et se retrouva sur une île déserte. Secouru par un baleinier américain il gagna le Massachusetts où il apprit l’anglais, les mathématiques et les techniques de pêche à la baleine. En 1851, soit dix ans après son départ, il revint au Japon où, plus tard, il œuvra comme interprète auprès du gouvernement : une belle histoire.
Nous voici à une des extrémités les plus méridionales de l’île, très touristique certes mais le site est de toute beauté et balaie un horizon à quasi 360°. Les vagues se brisent sur des falaises à pic surmontées d’un phare d’une blancheur de craie.
Le temple 38, Kongofuku-ji, la Bonne Fortune du Diamant
Tout proche de l’océan, le temple est quasi désert lorsque nous y pénétrons.
Particularités locales : une arche naturelle, un ravissant tori, un très beau gorinsotoba
Nous empruntons ensuite l’itinéraire des sept merveilles d’Ashizuri, un sentier serpentant au travers d’une végétation sub-tropicale pour découvrir Hakusan-cave, une arche gigantesque creusée par l’océan au fil des millénaires. Un sentier escarpé sans issue mène à un ravissant tori, porte d’entrée d’un sanctuaire caché dans la falaise.
Et sur notre chemin de retour, nous découvrons un très beau gorinsotoba, tour à cinq anneaux, sorte de pagode ou stupa symbolisant les cinq éléments chez les bouddhistes, adopté par les sectes Shingon japonaises et utilisé à des fins funéraires. De bas en haut se superposent le cube (chirin) symbolise la Terre, la sphère (surin) l’Eau, la pyramide (karin) le Feu, l’hémisphère (fuurin) l’Air et enfin la fleur de lotus (kuurin) représente l’Ether ou Energie ou Vide. Ces cinq anneaux expriment l’idée qu’après la mort physique nos corps reviennent à leur forme originelle élémentaire.
Sashimi du pêcheur pour le dîner du soir
Il est temps de rejoindre notre minshuku Hatto, tenu par un vieux couple, réputé pour ses excellents sashimis. Lui, ancien pêcheur, propose également des sorties en mer pour le whale watching. Il s’assure avant que nous disparaissions à notre séance furo que nous aimons les sashimis. Nous le rassurons pleinement : Suki des !!!! (traduction : nous aimons beaucoup !). Nous sommes à nouveau les seuls clients et pourtant notre chambre n’a pas été faite… Notre hôtesse toute guillerette repart en trottinant réparer ce petit oubli.
Le point d’orgue de la soirée restera le dîner : un hommage aux merveilles de l’océan avec en particulier un sashimi de bonite entière superbement présentée avec la tête du poisson au sommet du plat. Notre pêcheur est ravi de nous voir nous extasier d’abord puis nous délecter de sa spécialité.
Ce vieux couple encore une fois est à nos petits soins. Le linge que j’avais mis à laver avant le dîner nous sera monté séché et plié dans notre chambre. Ce soir, nous retrouvons le plaisir de nous glisser dans nos futons bien douillets.
Petit lexique
- furansu jin : « français » en japonais
- furo : bain japonais. Ce mot désigne la baignoire et, par extension, la salle de bains
- haruki henro : pèlerin à pied
- henro : pèlerin
- minshuku : équivalent japonais de la chambre d’hôte, le minshuku est un établissement familial dont les chambres, louées à la clientèle font partie intégrante de la maison.
- onigiri : boulette de riz, souvent enveloppée ou accompagnée d’une algue.
- o-settai : offrande donnée aux pèlerins autant pour les honorer que pour représenter le donateur au cours du pèlerinage
- sashimi : tranches de poisson frais à consommer cru. Pas de riz içi, il est réservé au sushi.
- yukata : léger vêtement d’été, en coton, porté par les hommes et les femmes. Communément utilisé à l’intérieur, comme un peignoir, en sortie de bain comme pour dîner.
Quelques mots sur l’auteur / autrice
Le 20 mars 2019, Catherine, co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior, s’engageait avec son mari dans une longue marche, le Pèlerinage de Shikoku, une île au sud du Japon. Ils ont 63 ans chacun, n’ont jamais vécu au Japon, ne parlent pas japonais, ne sont pas bouddhistes. Bien que marcheurs réguliers, ils ne se sont jamais lancés sur une si longue distance : 1 200 km sur un circuit historique de 88 temples.
Dans cette période actuelle de confinement, Catherine nous a proposé de partager au jour le jour leur aventure, physique, culturelle et spirituelle. Exactement un an après, suivons leurs pas et découvrons avec eux cette île et le quotidien des pèlerins dans un monde inconnu. Atteindront-ils le Nirvana promis aux pèlerins qui atteignent le quatre-vingt-huitième temple ? Nous le découvrirons au fil des jours à venir ….
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