Un chariot de courses dans les salins
09 avril – J21 – 25 kms – T37
Nous quittons notre guest-house pour emprunter la « cherry blossom section », une allée de cerisiers le long de la rivière sur 1km. La rivière malheureusement est à sec et les cerisiers sont déjà en fin de floraison, les feuilles commencent à pointer leur nez sur certains d’entre eux. En pleine saison, cela doit être une promenade bien courue par les familles. Des lanternes-papier sont accrochées aux branches tout le long de l’allée. Il est bien agréable de débuter la journée ainsi.
Un chemin qui monte, de marche en marche …
Nous rejoignons ainsi le fond du vallon avant de grimper au col. Pour une fois, voici un vrai sentier brut comme chez nous grimpant dans les bois et des iris sauvages jonchent les bords du chemin. Mais ces fichues marches artificielles, façon rondins de bois, complètement démesurées nous attendent pour terminer l’ascension. A croire que ceux qui ont créé ce type d’escalier n’ont jamais randonné en montagne. C’est absolument épuisant.
Notre sentier débouche enfin sur la route au sommet du col où je m’assois exténuée. Un vieux monsieur, tout vêtu de blanc, vient gentiment m’offrir une orange, premier o-settai de la journée. Nous engageons la conversation qui malheureusement reste limitée mais nous comprenons que c’est la troisième fois qu’il fait ce pèlerinage à pied. Il est accompagné pour quelques jours par un couple ami. Nous immortalisons, comme d’habitude, cette rencontre par une photo. Nous les retrouverons ce soir puisqu’ils nous disent avoir réservé le même ryokan que nous.
Suivi d’une descente de paysages variés
Et nos semelles retrouvent le bitume de la route… dont on s’échappe de temps en temps par des sections d’itinéraire secondaire qui nous plongent chaque fois dans une campagne agricole de rizières, de cultures maraîchères et florales.
Quelques images surprenantes jalonnent nos traversées de villages: un sanglier prisonnier dans une cage faite de grillages et tôle ondulée couverts de rouille, des arbres taillés comme des soucoupes volantes, un urinoir dans une cabane de bois ouverte sur le chemin, des cerisiers bicolores superbes, des alentours de maison qui sont des fouillis indicibles, des serres ouvertes où s’alignent une multitude de godets de plantes grasses, et une profusion d’arbustes azalées sauvages….
« A 100 mètres, nous offrons le thé aux pèlerins »
Et soudain, une halte inespérée chez Kyoko et Toshiyuki qui, de mars à novembre, assurent l’accueil d’une « walking henro o-settai station ». Ils offrent gratuitement une boisson, quelques biscuits et surtout une hospitalité hors du commun dans un petit jardin loin du bruit de la route, un écrin de paix où sont déjà installés à notre arrivée, des pèlerins croisés en chemin. Ce couple charmant a déjà parcouru trois fois le chemin de Shikoku, ils assurent cet accueil depuis onze ans et habitent le reste du temps à Tokyo. Ils nous disent avoir une fille mariée à un français vivant à Paris depuis 25 ans. Chaque henro ajoute sa touche personnelle à leur livre d’or. Et nous voyons ainsi que Rolf et Sophie nous ont précédés de quelques jours. Cela donne des idées… nous pourrions proposer quelque chose d’équivalent dans notre maison d’été du Sud pour les pèlerins de Compostelle.
Le temple Iwamoto-ji, la Racine de Pierre
Vers 16 heures, nous atteignons le temple 37 en pleine ville de Shimanto. Iwamoto-ji, la Racine de Pierre, avec son plafond du temple principal décoré de 575 peintures colorées, où Marylin Monroe côtoie des bouddhas, des fleurs et des paons… Le dragon crachant l’eau de la fontaine purificatrice a un petit air fort sympathique.
J’aime aussi beaucoup toutes ces plaquettes de bois alignées aux motifs colorés où chacun inscrit ses vœux, j’en verrai bien une dans notre arbre de Noël. Deux gigantesques tongues de corde encadrent le portique d’entrée. Kukai est sensé avoir réalisé ce pèlerinage avec ce type de sandales aux pieds… Je suis bien heureuse que la technique de la randonnée moderne ait inventé d’autres chaussures !
Symbolique de la grosse cloche en bronze à l’entrée de chaque temple : « Elancer à l’horizontale le gros rondin de bois suspendu à une corde pour venir taper contre la cloche, vise à éloigner les mauvais esprits et la part sombre de nos profondeurs… »
Tiens, tiens, c’est peut -être pour cela que j’aime m’imprégner de ce frémissement sonore qui semble vibrer jusqu’au fond de mon être et prêter l‘oreille jusqu’à la disparition de la dernière vibration…
La pâtisserie irrésistible…
A la sortie du temple, nous nous abandonnons au péché de la gourmandise sans remords aucun, en effet une ravissante boutique offre des pâtisseries à l’esthétique irréprochable et irrésistible.
Ce soir, luxe et volupté !
Et nous rejoignons notre auberge du soir : le Mima Ryokan, un ravissant hôtel dans une maison traditionnelle. Ce soir c’est le luxe ! Nous héritons d’une immense chambre avec terrasse donnant sur un très joli jardin intérieur. Le furo tout en bois clair est magnifique, le dîner excellent et au retour dans notre chambre, nos futons ont été discrètement installés. Quel plaisir de baigner ainsi de temps en temps dans ce luxe sobre et attentionné à la japonaise.
A propos de l'auteur
CatherineM, 64 ans, est co-fondatrice de CouleurSenior. Grande lectrice et grande marcheuse, elle est actuellement Médecin bénévole pour Médecins du Monde à Paris.
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